How the heck do you tell what’s in a skincare product? Sure, plenty of brands show off the darling active of the moment on the packaging, but we all know there’s barely a drop of that in there. So, how the heck do you tell what’s REALLY in a product?
Avant skincare tells you straight up. The active ingredients (and the odd filler one – come on, no one is perfect) are written in capital letters on the front of the box. At the back, you’ll find a brief explanation about what they do – both in English and French. Cool, huh?
Plus, those tubes and jars look so sleek, don’t you agree? My first foray into Avant Skincare is the Pro-Intense Hyaluronic Acid Illuminating Day Cream. I know, I know. What a surprise. If you’re a regular here, you know my skin can’t get enough hyaluronic acid in winter. How did it fare?
What’s In Avant Skincare Pro-Intense Hyaluronic Acid Illuminating Day Cream?
HYALURONIC ACID TO HYDRATE SKIN
Hyaluronic Acid is a humectant. Humec… what? Let’s start again: hyaluronic acid is a moisture magnet. It attracts water from the air into the skin and binds it there. It’s so good at its job, it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water!
You know what all that water does to your skin? It makes it soft and smooth. It plumps it up so your fine lines and wrinkles look smaller. It gives it that beautiful translucent glow. Hyaluronic acid is a great way to give dry skin that extra burst of moisture it needs and hydrate oily skin without adding more oil to it. It’s a win win for all skin types.
Related: Why You Should Add Hyaluronic Acid To Your Skincare Routine
Struggling to create an anti-aging routine that works? Download the Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine Cheatsheet below to find out what products really work – and in what order to use them:
EMOLLIENTS TO SOFTEN SKIN
Emo… what?! Stop it with the difficult words, Gio! I know, I know. But hear me out. Emollients are ingredients that moisturise your skin and make it soft and smooth. Avant said the two two moisturising workhorses here are Jojoba and Avocado oils and they certainly do part of the job. But, the bulk is done by synthetic emollients, such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol. They’re at the top of the ingredient list, not the oils.
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is derived from the fatty acids in coconut oil. Coconut oil is a wonderful moisturiser, but can be heavy and comedogenic. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride has a much lighter feel so it delivers all its moisturising benefits without the side effects.
- Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol are the good kinds of alcohol (yes, alcohol can be good). They’re called fatty acids and have moisturising properties that help dry skin stay soft and supple.
I know these ingredients aren’t as sexy as Jojoba and avocado oil buy they work just as well and are just as safe.
Related: What Does Alcohol-Free In Skincare Really Mean?
ANTIOXIDANT TO FIGHT PREMATURE AGING
Wait, what? Antioxidants in a jar packaging? Yep. I’m not too bothered about the Vitamin C because it’s a derivative (Ascorbyl Palmitate). Derivatives are stable so they don’t degrade as easily when exposed to light and air (i.e. When put in a jar). The rest of the antioxidants is mostly in the jojoba and avocado oils. That’s ok. I just wish the antioxidants were higher on the ingredient list. They’d have worked better against wrinkles.
Related: Types Of Antioxidants In Skincare
The Rest Of The Formula & Ingredients
NOTE: The colours indicate the effectiveness of an ingredient. It is ILLEGAL to put toxic and harmful ingredients in skincare products.
- Green: It’s effective, proven to work, and helps the product do the best possible job for your skin.
- Yellow: There’s not much proof it works (at least, yet).
- Red: What is this doing here?!
- Allantoin: a skin soother that helps calm things down when your skin’s feeling irritated or needs a little healing boost.
- Aqua (water): the main ingredient that everything else gets mixed into so the product can actually spread on your skin.
- Cetearyl glucoside: keeps the watery parts and oily parts from separating into weird layers in the bottle.
- Cetyl alcohol: another one of those fatty alcohols that thickens things up and helps lock moisture into your skin.
- Chlorphenesin: stops gross stuff like bacteria and mold from growing in your product so it doesn’t go bad.
- CI 17200 (D&C Red No. 33): red dye to make the product look pretty and a certain color.
- CI 42090 (FD&C Blue No. 1): blue dye that mixes with the red to create whatever shade they’re going for.
- Citric acid: balances out the pH so it matches your skin better, and it can also help brighten things up a bit.
- Dimethicone: silicone that makes your skin feel super smooth and soft while keeping moisture from escaping.
- Dimethicone crosspolymer: a fancy version of regular dimethicone that gives you that velvety, almost powdery finish.
- Ethylhexyl palmitate: helps the product glide on really easily and makes your skin feel nice and soft afterward.
- Ethylhexylglycerin: makes the texture better and helps the preservatives work even better at keeping things fresh.
- Lecithin: helps mix everything together and also gives your skin barrier a little extra support.
- Maris aqua (sea water): literally ocean water that adds minerals to give your skin some extra nutrients.
- Ozokerite: a natural wax that makes the formula thicker and adds a bit of protection on top of your skin.
- Parfum (fragrance): makes it smell nice, though heads up if you’ve got sensitive skin since fragrance can be irritating for some people.
- Phenoxyethanol: another preservative that keeps bacteria out so your product lasts longer and stays safe.
- Potassium cetyl phosphate: helps blend everything into that smooth, creamy texture you want in a moisturizer.
- Propylene glycol: pulls water into your skin to keep it hydrated and helps other ingredients sink in better.
- Sodium polyacrylate: thickens everything up and gives it that nice gel-like feel when you’re rubbing it in.
- Sorbitol: pulls moisture into your skin and keeps the product from drying out while it sits in the jar.
- Stearyl alcohol: conditions your skin and keeps the cream from separating into weird layers.
- Tocopherol: vitamin E, which protects your skin from damage and also keeps the oils in the formula from going rancid.
- Xanthan gum: thickens everything up and makes sure all the ingredients stay mixed together evenly instead of settling at the bottom.
Texture
Okay so this cream is thick – like properly thick. But in a good way? It’s got that bouncy, whipped vibe when you scoop it out, almost like frosting but obviously don’t eat it lol. It spreads way easier than you’d think though. Like I was worried it’d just sit there being greasy but nope, it glides on and sinks in without me having to massage my face for ten minutes. All those silicones in there give it this slippery, silky feel that’s honestly really nice. The finish is a bit velvety-powdery which I kinda like but my friend tried it and said it felt too much like primer. So if you’re oily this might be heavy for morning, but if you’re dry you’ll probably love it.
Fragrance
Yeah so there’s definitely fragrance in this and you’re gonna smell it. It’s that generic expensive skincare smell – kinda floral, kinda fresh, kinda like a spa? Hard to describe but you know the vibe. It’s not choking you out or anything but it’s noticeable. If fragrance pisses you off or makes your skin angry, maybe skip this one. The smell does fade pretty fast after you put it on at least. Honestly some mornings I’m into it and feel bougie, other times I’m like why couldn’t they just make it unscented so I don’t have to think about it.
How To Use It
So you’re gonna use this in the morning after you’ve cleansed and done your serums or whatever else you’re putting on. Just scoop out about a pea to dime-sized amount – you really don’t need a ton because it spreads well. Warm it up between your fingers for a sec, then massage it into your face and neck in upward motions (because we’re fancy like that). Make sure you give it a minute to fully sink in before you put on sunscreen or makeup, otherwise everything’s gonna pill up and you’ll be annoyed.
Packaging
The packaging is definitely trying to look expensive and luxurious – Avant is all about that premium vibe. It usually comes in a hefty glass jar with a sleek lid, and honestly it looks pretty sitting on your vanity. The jar itself feels substantial, not flimsy or cheap. But here’s the thing – jar packaging for a cream with all these active ingredients isn’t ideal because every time you dip your fingers in, you’re exposing everything to air and bacteria.
A pump or tube would be way more hygienic and would keep the ingredients fresher longer. The jar does look gorgeous though, I’ll give them that. It’s got that whole “treat yourself” aesthetic going on. Just make sure you’re washing your hands before you stick them in there, or use a little spatula if you’re fancy like that.
Performance & Personal Opinion
Avant Pro-Intense Hyaluronic Acid Illuminating Day Cream is a pretty seafood green. I know this isn’t very scientific of me, but it’s kinda refreshing to see a cream that’s not your usual white or light yellow. When I first started using the cream, Mr BWB asked me what I was doing to my skin. It was softer and smoother than usual.
It also looks glower. Granted, it doesn’t make my skin glow like a high-sheen highlighter, but then that’s not the look I’m going for. I prefer a more subtle glow that makes my skin look healthy and fresh. This delivers just that.
The cream makes my fine lines look smaller, too. That hyaluronic acid plumps them well up. It’s true the effect vanishes by the end of the day but then very few things fight wrinkles long term. In the meantime, I want something that makes them look smaller, too. See what I’m saying?
The real drawback for me is that, on the coldest days of the year, when my skin gets drier than usual, this cream alone can’t keep it moisturised all day. After a few hours, I get that tell-tale tight feeling that lets me know I need to slather on some more. This is a problem that only dry skin will have – and even then only when it feels particularly dry. Oily skin will be totally fine with this cream all year round.
Related: Treatment VS Prevention: What Really Works Against Wrinkles
What I Like About Avant Pro-Intense Hyaluronic Acid Illuminating Day Cream
- It actually makes my skin noticeably softer and smoother – like my boyfriend literally noticed the difference without me saying anything
- The glow is really natural and subtle, not that crazy highlighter look – just healthy and fresh-looking skin
- It plumps up my fine lines so they look way less noticeable throughout the day, which is honestly all I can ask for
- The color is this cool seafoam green which sounds weird but it’s actually kinda fun and different from boring white creams
- The texture spreads really easily and doesn’t feel heavy or greasy even though it’s thick
What I DON’T Like About Avant Pro-Intense Hyaluronic Acid Illuminating Day Cream
- On really cold days when my skin’s super dry, this doesn’t keep me moisturized all day – I get that tight feeling after a few hours and need to reapply
- The plumping effect on fine lines disappears by the end of the day, so it’s not doing anything long-term for wrinkles
- There’s fragrance in it which can be hit or miss depending on the day and might irritate sensitive skin
- The jar packaging isn’t the most hygienic – you’re sticking your fingers in there every time
- It might be too heavy for oily skin types in the morning
Who Should Use It?
Honestly this is great if you’ve got normal to dry skin and you’re chasing that natural glow without looking like you dunked your face in highlighter. If you like thick, creamy textures that feel kinda fancy and don’t freak out about fragrance, go for it. It’s also clutch for when you need your fine lines to chill out for a few hours – like if you’ve got work or you’re going out and want your skin looking good.
But if you’re oily? Probably gonna be too much. And if fragrance makes you break out or just annoys you, hard pass. Also if your skin is like crazy dry – the kind where nothing seems to work – you’ll probably need something heavier anyway. Same if you’re really sensitive, there’s fragrance and dyes in here that might not vibe with your skin.
Does Avant Skincare Pro-Intense Hyaluronic Acid Illuminating Day Cream Live Up To Its Claims?
| CLAIM | TRUE? |
|---|---|
| Aims to smooth fine lines and wrinkles. | True, but the effect is only temporary. |
| Works to hydrate skin. | True. |
| Helps prevent and reverse the signs of ageing. | It has a sprinkle of antioxidants that can help with this, but you need more than that to help prevent and reverse the signs of aging. |
Price & Availability
£97 at Face The Future
Do You Need It?
If you’re looking for a hydrating moisturiser that gives your skin a subtle glow AND money is not a concern, this is worth a try. If you’re on a budget, you’re better off with a cheaper moisturiser with stronger antiaging properties.
Allantoin, aqua (water), ascorbyl palmitate, caprylic/capric, triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl, glucoside, cetyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, CI 17200 (D&C Red No. 33), CI 42090 (FD&C Blu No. 1), citric acid, dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, ethylhexyl, palmitate, ethylhexylglycerin, lecithin, maris aqua (sea water), ozokerite, parfum (fragrance), Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, phenoxyethanol, potassium cetyl phosphate, propylene glycol, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, sodium hyaluronate sodium polyacrylate, sorbitol stearyl alcohol tocopherol, xanthan gum.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
